As I took a bite of cinnamon bread outside of the Grist Mill at Dollywood on Thursday, I couldn’t help thinking: I’ve made it.
I grew up in Nashville and have wanted to visit Dolly Parton’s Tennessee theme park for years, but the timing never worked out – though billboards reading “The Great Smokies are calling” made me consider an impromptu road trip more than once.
I finally took the three-and-a-half hour drive this week for the opening of its new Big Bear Mountain roller coaster and spent a day exploring. Here’s what stood out to me as a first-time visitor and what other newbies like me should keep in mind:
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The theme park is manageable
In the leadup to my visit, I tried to sketch a rough mental game plan. I consulted USA TODAY’s resident theme park expert, Eve Chen, who accompanied me on the trip and texted a friend who said he has been to Dollywood probably 75 times, asking for his recommendations. I figured I wouldn’t be able to get to all of them, but they at least gave me a starting point.
But when I got to the park, I was surprised by how manageable it felt. We began our day at the family-friendly area Wildwood Grove and traversed the park’s central loop more than once during our less than six-hour visit.
After the first time around, I felt I had my bearings. The setup allowed us to wander freely, hopping on roller coasters like the Tennessee Tornado and stopping in shops as we went. Unlike at some other theme parks I've visited, I didn’t worry about getting lost.
Aided by TimeSaver passes, we moved through rides at a good clip – though the crowds appeared to be modest as we visited on a weekday, and we did not even attempt to visit Dollywood's Splash Country water park.
While I didn’t make it to every attraction my friend suggested – the theme park would likely take a couple of days to conquer in earnest – I made a dent.
The park uses the mountains as an attraction
Dollywood has plenty of rides, but the scenery is its own attraction. Located in the foothills of the Smoky Mountains in Pigeon Forge, the park capitalizes on a cozy, cabin-in-the-woods feel – wood structures abound and I saw at least two kinds of black bear Christmas ornaments for sale. Roller coasters like the 21-story high Wild Eagle, meanwhile, offer sweeping views of the treetops.
Granted, I only saw those for the brief intermittent moments when I opened my eyes – I’m not a big fan of heights – but they were worth it.
Dolly Parton is everywhere
While I expected Parton to feature prominently in my day at Dollywood, her story was woven through the experience in strikingly personal ways. “In some ways, going through Dollywood is like a tour through my life, and I hope that it inspires and helps everyone who visits with their own dreams,” the legendary entertainer said in a pamphlet available at the entrance.
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That was evident all around. While eating lunch outside in the park, I could hear Parton’s voice over a speaker telling the story behind her song “Coat of Many Colors,” about a coat her mother made for her from fabric scraps. And in between rides, we stopped by Dolly’s Tennessee Mountain Home, a replica of the house where she grew up.
The replica was built by Parton’s brother, Bobby, and her mother, Avie Lee, reproduced the inside, where Dollywood visitors can see “original family treasures,” according to a plaque outside.
I left the park not only having had several thrills – and both too much and somehow not enough cinnamon bread – but also the impression that I had gotten a glimpse inside Parton’s world.
Nathan Diller is a consumer travel reporter for USA TODAY based in Nashville. You can reach him at [email protected].
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